Cat Tips

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November 20th, 2009
by JaneA Kelley, Paws and Effect

  You’re getting ready to leave for your first vacation in years, and you’re leaving your cat in the care of a sitter while you’re away. You’ve done all the right things when choosing a sitter: you’ve checked references, stocked up on food and treats, and made sure your cat knows you’re going away but you will be back.

But there’s one little detail a lot of people forget, and it could turn into a life-or-death situation. Make sure to talk to your vet before you leave.

Tell the vet you’re going away for a while and who’s going to be taking care of your cat while you’re gone. Make payment arrangements in case your cat gets sick while you’re away. Most vets will require credit card information and specific information about what kind of measures or care you’re willing to authorize.

Inform your vet if you want to be contacted in the event your cat gets sick. If so, be sure your vet has a phone number where you can be reached: if it’s a cell phone, make sure you keep it with you and it’s turned on. If you’re in another country where your phone won’t work, give the vet a local message number or an e-mail address that you know you’ll check at least daily.

Make sure you have enough carriers for all your cats, that all the carriers are in working order, and that your sitter knows where they are.

Leave a note for your sitter with feeding instructions, your contact information, your vet’s phone number, the phone number for the nearest emergency vet, and dosing information for any medications your cat is taking.

Do these simple things before you go away and you’ll be able to breathe easy knowing your sitter will have all the information she needs to keep your kitty well and safe.

Cat expert and animal communicator JaneA Kelley is the webmaster and chief cat slave for Paws and Effect, a weekly cat advice column by cats, for cats and their people.

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November 19th, 2009
by JaneA Kelley, Paws and Effect

  Cerebellar hypoplasia (CH) is a condition in which the cerebellum, the part of the brain that controls a cat’s coordination, is underdeveloped. It is caused by being exposed to feline panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper) while in the mother’s uterus or shortly after birth.

Symptoms of CH include ataxia (staggering, jerky gait), and a tendency to overshoot or undershoot when pouncing or reaching for objects. Because of their lack of coordination, cats with CH can have trouble eating or using the litter box. The good news is that the disease is not progressive, and cats can easily adapt to their condition with a little extra care to meet their special needs.

Cats with CH should never be let outside, because they have trouble avoiding predators or oncoming vehicles. Use dishes that can’t be tipped over, such as rubber-bottomed steel bowls, to help a CH kitten eat more easily. A litter box with high sides and a low opening can make it easier for a CH cat to support himself while using the toilet.

This sweet video shows the story of Charley, a cat with cerebellar hypoplasia. Cats with CH don’t suffer or have pain as a result of their disease. They live long, healthy lives and can fill your life with just as much joy as a non-disabled cat. All a CH cat needs from you is a safe and loving home and some minor accommodations for his special needs.

Cat expert and animal communicator JaneA Kelley is the webmaster and chief cat slave for Paws and Effect, a weekly cat advice column by cats, for cats and their people.

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November 16th, 2009
by JaneA Kelley, Paws and Effect

  Last year, a reader wrote to me desperately seeking information about how to get oil out of her cat’s fur. It turned out the answer was simpler than either of us thought.

Dawn dish detergent, the miracle product rescuers use to clean oil-coated birds, will also work for your cat, if you use this procedure: Put the detergent on your cat’s fur before you get him wet. Massage it in for several minutes. By using the detergent before you wet your cat, the oil will get bound up in the soap rather than just causing the soap and water to slick off without touching the oil. Rinse your cat’s fur with warm water until no more suds come out.

My reader reported that this technique worked like a charm, and her kitty’s fur was clean after the first try.

Cat expert and animal communicator JaneA Kelley is the webmaster and chief cat slave for Paws and Effect, a weekly cat advice column by cats, for cats and their people.

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November 13th, 2009
by JaneA Kelley, Paws and Effect

  Like human babies, cats go through two stages of teething. Baby teeth start erupting at around three weeks of age, and between three and five months of age, the adult teeth start coming in.

Teething can be as uncomfortable for kittens as it is for babies. Although cats do not fuss and cry while their teeth are coming in, they may show behaviors that indicate discomfort such as chewing on inappropriate objects.

PetStages makes a chewing toy called the Catnip Crunchy Chew Stick, which can help relieve the discomfort. The chew stick can be frozen, so it provides a firm chewing surface and the cold that can help ease the pain and irritation of teething. My cats have a bunch of PetStages toys, and they enjoy them very much.

Be sure to check your kitten’s mouth every couple of days and make sure those teeth are coming in properly. If she stops eating or begins to act lethargic, get in touch with your vet right away.

Cat expert and animal communicator JaneA Kelley is the webmaster and chief cat slave for Paws and Effect, a weekly cat advice column by cats, for cats and their people.

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November 12th, 2009
by JaneA Kelley, Paws and Effect

  Claw trimming is generally a painless procedure. But some cats view it as nothing short of torture. Here are some quick tips for making claw trimming easier for you and your cat.

First, make sure you and your cat are positioned properly. Let your cat sit on a table, facing away from you. Hold him with your non-dominant hand. You can then use your dominant hand to trim his claws.

Use the right tool for the job. A special scissor designed for trimming cat nails is the best choice, but a sharp fingernail clipper will work too.

Make sure you are calm as well. If you come off as anxious and stressed, your cat will pick up on that and it will make him more upset.

If your cat squirms and struggles, or if he is new to claw trimming, do only one or two claws at a time and reward him with a treat afterwards.

If all else fails, have a professional groomer or your vet trim those nails. They can show you their technique, which might make it easier for you in the future.

Cat expert and animal communicator JaneA Kelley is the webmaster and chief cat slave for Paws and Effect, a weekly cat advice column by cats, for cats and their people.

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November 5th, 2009
by Kelly Modzelewski, Dog and Cat Writer

  Every once in a while, I receive an unsolicited e-mail that isn’t about taking a pill to improve my life between the sheets. The other day, I got a message from Cat Age that challenged me to find out the “real” age of my cat. Being a curious cat owner and wanting to avoid doing the bills, I tried it out.

The questionnaire is fairly long but it’s also very thorough and informative. It considers current age, weight, physical activity, diet and feeding practices, health care, behavioral issues, social interaction, possible disease and health conditions, and safety. It also provides detailed information about your answers and some interesting cat data such as the fact that 35 to 45 percent of cats are obese.

I am proud to sat that my cat Ed is 13.1 years younger than the average cat age for his breed (mixed). Considering that the average cat lives 15 to 17 years, he should be around another nine years or so, especially if I start brushing his teeth.

Kelly is a pet writer. She lives in the Boston area with her three pit bulls and one neurotic cat.

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Uncategorized
October 30th, 2009
by Kelly Modzelewski, Dog and Cat Writer

  Many people love to get scared during Halloween from, be it from a cheesy slasher movie, a creative haunted house, or by telling ghost stories by the fire. It’s also the time of year for black cats – in a bad way.

Many get stolen around Halloween so it’s best to keep your cat, black or white, inside. By keeping them indoors, you also protect them against potentially unruly mobs of trick-or-treaters and Halloween decorations that are easy to get caught in.

Keep your cat confined and away from the door as it is easy for an over-stimulated, confused cat to rush outside when you’re handing out candy.

Indoors, cats should also be kept away from decorations. Things like tinsel can be deadly if ingested. Keep all candy securely safe in a cupboard, as chocolate and many of the ingredients in candy like candy corn and licorice are dangerous to your cat.

Because Halloween is loud and chaotic and sometimes obnoxious, consider using a flower essence like Rescue Remedy to help calm your cat. And be sure to take time to check on your cat and assure him it’s only one day and night of nightmarish revelry.

Kelly is a pet writer. She lives in the Boston area with her three pit bulls and one neurotic cat.

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October 26th, 2009
by Tracie Hotchner, Author & Radio Show Host

  Kittens do not need food that’s too different from what adult cats consume, but they do need more protein-rich food and they need to eat more frequently.

A kitten needs a greater quantity because he has a tiny stomach and a fast metabolism that burns the fuel up quickly, leaving him ready for more food more often.

Radio show host and pet expert Tracie Hotchner is the author of The Dog Bible and The Cat Bible. Click here to follow her on Twitter.

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October 19th, 2009
by Kelly Modzelewski, Dog and Cat Writer

  When I visited my sister after a few months of absence, I came across her cat Boo Boo walking in circles around the dining room. Immediately shocked, I brought it to her attention. “It’s his Diabetes,” she responded and promptly grabbed the back of his neck and gave him a shot of insulin.

One in 400 cats has Diabetes and they can live fairly normal lives for many years. But their owners must expect some changes.

Be prepared to: give insulin injections (your vet can show you how this is done) or oral hyperglycemics; modify your cat’s diet (a high-fiber diet is recommended); and monitor their health by checking for excessive urination or water intake, noting your cat’s weight and behavior, and watching for urinary tract infections.

Above all, establish a good relationship with your vet so they can help you identify these and other hypoglycemic indicators. And keep a positive attitude – Diabetes is something that can be managed with a little extra care.

Kelly is a dog columnist and pet writer. She lives in the Boston-area with her three pit bulls and one neurotic cat.

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October 16th, 2009
by Tracie Hotchner, Author & Radio Show Host

  Clipping a long-haired cat in critical spots can reduce the work and misery for both of you. If there are already mats, then you need to have them cut out professionally, either by your vet or by a highly-skilled groomer who specializes in cats (and realizes they are not “little dogs”).

The areas to clip short are in the armpits, inside the back legs and chest area, or anywhere you have noticed matting on your cat in the past.

Radio show host and pet expert Tracie Hotchner is the author of The Dog Bible and The Cat Bible. Click here to follow her on Twitter.

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